Tack Cleaning Tips From Your EQ Experts


ARE YOU TAKING PROPER CARE OF ONE OF YOUR BIGGEST INVESTMENTS?

We all know we should clean our tack thoroughly, but we make excuses not to. I don’t have time. It’s too cold. I’ll do it tomorrow….. Tack is more than just a thing of beauty. It’s vital contributor to the safety of both horse and rider. Tack is often one of our biggest investments – second only to the horse itself. If you take a few minutes each time you ride and reserve just an hour every month or so, your tack will look beautiful and reward you with years of performance.

   



The Equestrian’s Concierge offers leather repair products and services that include:

• Repair and Re-conditioning of old leather
• Darkening, conditioning and weather-proofing of new leather
• Instruction and recommendations for care
• Leather care products

We’ve received many requests for leather care advice. In response we’ve listed our three primary processes below. Don’t feel like doing it? The Equestrian’s Concierge is happy to provide these services, plus darkening and conditioning of brand new tack.  Just ask us.

For a printable copy of these instructions in PDF format, click here.

 

FINE LEATHER/BOOT CARE
Your paddock boots are one thing: wipe ‘em off with your tack sponge, spray ‘em off when your washing your horse — that’s fine (please do remember to put some conditioner on them).  Your fine leather boots and tall boots require different care. It’s less work than you might think:

TOOLS OF CHOICE:
• Towel or cloth
• Bucket of water
• Sponge
• Leather Crème (non-oil based)
• Boot polish
• Boot buffer (optional)

Process:

  • If not muddy or particularly dirty, simply dust or dry off boots with a clean cloth.
  • Wipe off boots (or spray if muddy) with clean water and clean sponge.
  • Dry with towel/rag.
  • Apply a Leather Crème with rag (some good choices: Leather Milk, Leather CPR or Ayora Leather Crème.
  • Spot-color worn areas with polish.
  • Buff with fleece buffer (or shoe shine style with a soft rag).

There, wasn’t that easy?
NOTE: NEVER use glycerin or oil-based products on your fine boots — it’ll take away the shine.  With custom boots it will probably also void the warranty.

 

EVERYDAY TACK CARE
NOTE: The steps below are meant for tack, saddles and paddock boots or oiled leather boots and half-chaps. The fine leather of custom tall boots and many higher end stock boots should not be cleaned with glycerin or any other oil-based product.

Dirt, sweat and salt is the enemy of leather – not water. Don't be worry about getting your tack wet, be more concerned about leaving dust, oils or perspiration on it. Or worse, conditioning those things in to the leather instead of cleaning them off!

TOOLS OF CHOICE:
• Bucket of water
• Tack sponges (not kitchen scrubby sponges)
• Terrycloth towel or rag
• Nail brush or toothbrush
• Saddle soap — (two of our favorites: Fiebing’s Saddle Soap or Epona’s Bar in a Jar)
• Conditioner – We recommend Leather CPR and Leather Therapy. They’re great
cleaners/conditioners and are creamy, not oily.

Process:

  • Gently wipe the tack/saddle with a clean, dry towel to remove dust.
  • Apply soap generously with dampened (not wet) sponge – work up a lather.
  • Rinse lather with damp sponge until none remains.
  • Remove excess moisture with cloth — paying particular attention to stitching.
  • Apply conditioner with bare hands or with different sponge/cloth.
  • Allow to set while cleaning bit with sponge and/or brush.
  • Rinse stirrup irons with water; apply soap and rinse if necessary.
  • Wipe tack with cloth. This will remove excess conditioner, “pulling” it from stitching to avoid thread breakdown.
See, that didn't take too long!


 

 

THOROUGH TACK MAINTENANCE
This treatment should be applied once every month or so.  It is also the basis for re-conditioning, colouring, correcting damage or removing mildew. Think of this as stripping down/eliminating deposits then restoring moisture and suppleness and adding a layer of protection.

Note: for saddles, begin with the saddle turned upside down and work upwards — this is helps assuring all surfaces have been treated and, in the final steps, ensures the protection is undisturbed once applied.

TOOLS OF CHOICE (in addition to the Everyday Care tools):
• Small artist's paint brush
• White vinegar (for metal and any mildew)
• Neatsfoot Oil (it's denser and gives you more control than Hydrophane)
• Mink Oil paste — this is the ultimate ingredient for weatherproofing and softness

Process:

  • Gently wipe the tack/saddle with a clean, dry towel to remove dust.
  • Apply soap generously with dampened (not wet) sponge – work up a lather.
  • Scrub – with the sponge – areas that have oil buildup, discoloration and deposit – this is the “stripping down” phase (do not panic if some colour is “lifted out” of tack during this phase, it will return with oil and conditioning).
  • Use the brush on metal surfaces; buckles, stirrups, etc. Try soap first; if deposits remain or there is sign of mildew (usually white on leather or green on or around metal), use vinegar.
  • Rinse with damp sponge until no lather remains.
  • Wipe excess moisture with cloth, paying particular attention to stitching.
  • Allow saddle to dry and prepare to oil; identify particularly dry or discolored areas.
  • Apply oil using a clean, dry cloth or rag. Take care not to pour oil drops onto tack directly (it will cause inconsistent coloring). Oil will be applied like paint, in coats, and may require a “touch up” in areas.
  • Where oil has not produced the desired result, use finger, paint brush or corner of cloth to apply a spot amount.
  • Allow oil to dry (in the sun for less than an hour is appropriate).
  • Wipe excess oil with cloth paying particular attention to stitching.
  • Apply conditioner (Leather Therapy) with bare hands or with other sponge/cloth.
  • Allow to set for several minutes and wipe excess oil with cloth — again, pay particular attention to stitching.
  • Using your hands, apply Mink Oil paste as if applying lotion – with a gentle rubbing action but not “rubbing in” or “cracking/bending” leather.
  • Wipe excess paste away with cloth, paying particular attention to stitching and crevices — do not allow excess buildup to remain.
Leather should be supple and extremely soft – congratulations, you're done!


The Equestrian's Concierge • at Riverside Equestrian Center • 7600 Lakeville Road, Petaluma CA • (707) 778-1113 / Fax 1115 • Mobile (415) 847-8815